Understanding Lash Health

To deliver the best lash lift and tint results, you must be able to recognise when lashes are healthy and when they are damaged. Lash lifting works by breaking down disulfide bonds in the cortex of the hair to allow it to be reshaped and curled. This is a powerful chemical process, so understanding signs of damage, potential causes, and long-term effects is essential for maintaining lash health and client safety.

By the end of this section, you will be able to:

✔️Spot the difference between healthy and damaged lash hair

✔️Understand what causes damage before, during, and after lash lifting and tinting

✔️Monitor for signs of over-processing during treatment

✔️Recognise the long-term effects of repeated lash lifting

Common Causes of Lash Damage

Over-Processing

• Leaving lifting solution on too long, breaking too many disulfide bonds
• Not adjusting timing for lash thickness or porosity
• Performing repeat lifts too soon before lashes have naturally grown out
  
  

Incorrect Product Use

• Using expired or poorly stored lifting/tint products
• Applying products incorrectly (e.g., too much solution or on the skin)
• Skipping patch tests, increasing risk of allergic reactions or irritation

Poor Client Aftercare

• Rubbing eyes or lashes within 24 hours of treatment
• Using oil-based cleansers or active skincare too soon after the lift
• Skipping post-lift lash conditioning, leaving lashes dry and fragile
  

Long-Term Effects of Repeated Lash Lifting

If lifts or tints are performed too frequently or incorrectly, lash health may decline over time. Long-term effects include:

Alteration of Hair Structure

• Repeated chemical processing weakens the cortex, causing lashes to become brittle, coarse, or less flexible
  

Increased Porosity

• Over-lifted lashes absorb moisture quickly but lose it just as fast, leading to dryness and breakage
• High porosity can make tints fade faster and reduce serum absorption
  

Risk of Chronic Over-Processing

• Frequent or poorly timed lifts cause lasting damage:
  ◦ Snapped, thinning, or broken lashes
  ◦ Reduced elasticity and flexibility
  ◦ Lashes resisting curl or tint retention
  

Reduced Lash Cycle Longevity

• Excessive lifting or tinting can shorten the natural growth cycle, causing lashes to shed sooner
• Makes it harder to maintain full, healthy lashes over time
  

Increased Sensitivity to External Factors

• Lifted lashes are more vulnerable to UV exposure, oil-based products, and harsh skincare
• Without proper nourishment, cuticles remain weakened, leaving lashes prone to dryness, frizz, and breakage